Oregon is widely known for its coastal golf. Bandon Dunes has been one of the most desirable golf trip destinations in America for a little over 25 years. In that time, thousands of players have made the trip to what many consider to be the American golf mecca, and most come away with rave reviews.
However, there is another part of the Beaver State you need to be aware of for great golf, great food, top-notch hospitality and good-natured warmth. Central Oregon, known for its unique high desert vegetation, volcanic topography and the Deschutes River, offers another unique chance to visit the Pacific Northwest, and it’s all a direct flight away from Dallas.
Bend is the beacon of activity in this area. With a population just over 100,000, residents enjoy a diverse cultural experience, abundance of outdoor activities, and a booming craft brewery scene. In fact, Bend is widely known for its breweries, with over 30 to choose from, including Crux Fermentation Project, GoodLife Brewing and Boneyard Beer. There are so many breweries, that the Bend Ale Trail was launched in 2010, which is a passport to collect stamps or digital check-ins at all the breweries across the area. If one were so inclined, you could spend a couple weeks in the region just bouncing around from place-to-place sampling suds.
Day one of the adventure to Oregon began with an easy flight from DFW to Redmond. Flights are direct to this small airport, which makes getting to your destination a breeze. With just a couple baggage claims and rental car counters nearby, you are off the bird, with baggage and in your rental in just a matter of minutes.
After a 30-minute drive to Sunriver Resort, we sat down for lunch at the Owl’s Nest. This cozy restaurant has been a local favorite since the late ‘60s, with its scenic patio views of Mt. Bachelor in the distance. Take a seat on the patio, soak in the fresh air and view with any number of cocktails, wine or draft beers. I went with a Crux Fermentation Project Pilz, which is a light-sipping, old world-style pilsner. It was a perfect complement to my southern-style fried chicken sandwich, which came complete with a spicy aioli, bacon and some house-made pickles.
Following a relaxing lunch on the patio at the Owl’s Nest, I made my way to Crosswater, which is one of Oregon’s finest public golf experiences. Routinely ranked in the top 100 greatest public courses by Golf Digest, this trip through rolling meadows offers looks at snow-covered mountains in the distance, all the while twisting around the Big and Little Deschutes Rivers.
No. 4 is an early-round highlight, with a collection of bunkers left of the fairway and a lone pine on the right that offers players a line off the tee. The demanding, shallow green is protected short by wetlands. It’s your first real look at the unbridled beauty and terrain of Crosswater.
While the entire 18 at Crosswater offers eye-popping views and unparalleled scenery, stopping to take some photos on the tee at No. 6 is a must. This par 5 offers a look at Mt. Bachelor in the distance, and the slightly elevated tee sits perched above the Little Deschutes. Grab some video and photos before you hit one to this generous fairway, but then lock back in, as the hole gets progressively more stressful as you approach the green complex.
The final hole of the outward nine offers another look at the river on your right, and while there are no bunkers, the sheer length of this par 4, coupled with a massive 17,000 sq. ft. green, make this a tough customer as you prepare to make the turn.
There is plenty of history at Crosswater. Although the course didn’t open until 1995, back in 1969, rumor has it some of the John Wayne classic True Grit was filmed in a meadow that is now part of the course. Another great bit of history is the graveyard fenced in just to the left of the 11th fairway. It’s worth stopping to pay your respects to those who helped settle this area, including members of the Allen family, who arrived in the area via covered wagon in 1857.
When it comes to unmitigated length, No. 11, named “Endless,” will test even the longest players. Registering at a soul-crushing 687 yards, this gargantuan par 5 not only stretches the limits of modern-day technology, but also proves to be one of the most visually intimidating holes anywhere in Oregon. A lake all down the left must be navigated, and with bunkers and trees on the right, this is one of the most white-knuckle tee shots you might ever face. Find the fairway, and you will still need to hit one more shot long and straight to offer a wedge into the smallest green on the property. Walking away with par feels like a small victory, and anything better will leave you grinning from ear-to-ear.
Of all the holes at Crosswater, No. 13 might be one of the most special. It’s a rudimentary par 3, playing just 170 yards across some wetlands to a benign putting surface with a trio of guarding bunkers. However, after you hit your tee shot, direct your attention to the top of the old growth ponderosa pine to the right of the tee box to take in a majestic sight. Atop that tree sits an osprey nest that routinely homes either osprey or our national bird, the bald eagle. On our visit, you could clearly see an eagle perched atop the tree, scanning for prey. In Texas, we don’t see many bald eagles in the wild, so this was a truly magical moment, and one that brought a tear to my eye.
The final couple of holes at Crosswater are tough but offer a great challenge as you complete your round. No. 17 is one of the toughest holes on the course, playing almost 250 from the tips and usually into a prevailing breeze. Anything left is a lost cause, and there are three bunkers guarding the green. A par is a tremendous score on this pulse-pounding par 3.
The final test of this Bob Cupp design is a short par 4 with the Little Deschutes crossing the fairway at about 300 yards. Driver isn’t necessary, as a well-placed long iron, hybrid or three-metal leaves just 150 yards to the green center and one last opportunity at birdie.
While tough in spots, Crosswater provides some of the most magical and serene golf holes anywhere in the United States. You are consistently met with beautiful views, unique architectural elements and dramatic vistas. You’d be hard pressed to find a more beautiful 600 acres for golf.
After a day of travel and 18 holes at Crosswater, it was time to check out our accommodations for the next couple of nights. Tetherow Resort sits about a half hour north of Crosswater and Sunriver. One of the most impressive properties in the area, Tetherow opened in 2008 and has been named the top resort in the Pacific Northwest in the Conde Nast Readers’ Choice Awards.
Upon arrival at Tetherow, we checked into our room and were immediately greeted by a stunning view of the golf course below and the snow-capped Cascade Mountains in the distance. Fit and finish in the guest rooms are second to none, with a comfy couch if you plan to take in a little entertainment while you relax, and a huge cozy bed for when you turn in after a long day on the course. The true beauty presents itself as you escape the room to the outdoor patio, which comes complete with a couple of chairs to soak in the fresh air and cool evening breezes.
After checking in, we made the trek about 15 minutes to downtown Bend. Loaded with boutique shops, restaurants and breweries, the downtown area has a killer vibe. We popped in at Bar RBC (rancher, butcher, chef), which is a happening little tapas spot just off the main throughfare. We sampled the bacon-wrapped dates with spiced honey and the classic steak tartare. I paired our apps with a Country Natural Cooler, which was a mouth-watering combo of hibiscus-infused Blanco Tequila, agave, lime and topped with club soda.
For our entrée, we went with the Iberico Secreto, which is thinly sliced pork skirt steak topped with an herbaceous chimichurri. Don’t you dare miss this one while you’re in Bend. You won’t taste another piece of pork like it.
After a comfy night sleep, we were off to our next golf adventure. After a winding drive through the arid, jagged landscape, appeared the oasis of Pronghorn Club. Located about 45 minutes from our home base at Tetherow, Pronghorn offers a pair of courses, a Tom Fazio and a Jack Nicklaus. I have been fortunate enough to play multiple Nicklaus courses over the years, and I would have to rank Pronghorn right up at the top. This course is set in the middle of an ancient juniper forest, with lava rocks in abundance and mischievous hole designs all set among wildlife like pronghorn, jackrabbit, marmots and sagebrush lizards. Glorious views of the Cascade Mountains help frame holes and, along with the contrast between high desert browns and fairway greens, make every hole a postcard.
No. 2 is a personal favorite on the front nine. This par 5 gives players a chance at an early birdie with a good tee shot. Longer hitters can challenge the green, but be sure to miss short and left if you want to be aggressive. Anything right tends to settle in thick rough or find a large bunker, making an up-and-down a challenge.
The par-3 seventh is also a fantastic hole. Playing 187 from the tips, this can be an easy par when finding the green. Miss it, and there can be dire consequences. Anything missing right will catch a bunker that leaves a tough sand attempt, and anything left will careen down a steep slope and leave a pitch shot that requires a buttoned-up short game.
The inward nine at Pronghorn’s Nicklaus is as gorgeous as it is interesting. No. 11 is a great design, with an island of sand-surrounded gunch that separates a split fairway. Take a more conservative route to the right and the angle becomes awkward. Try to carry the middle bunker on the left side and the angle is better on approach, but the pucker factor increases ten-fold.
No. 13 is what I would consider the signature hole of this par-72 layout. This short par 4 gives players the option to chew off as much of the water on the right as they choose. Hitting something in the middle of the fairway with a three metal for position is fine but leaves a longer approach. Fire a driver over the edge of the water for a shorter wedge into this green that features a gorgeous bunker and waterfall framing the green. This is the perfect spot to take that Instagram photo with your group.
The first of back-to-back par 5s on the back side of this Nicklaus design is one of the crazier holes you will ever play from tee to green. It comes at the 15th, and weaves and winds through and around trees, bunkers and other high desert mystery flora. The fairway narrows at about 320 yards with a swath of rugged brush that juts out from the left. Even finding the fairway on the left doesn’t mean it’s good, as this mounding can lead to a blind shot. Favor the right side of the fairway for a clean look, but the second shot is no cupcake, as a rocky bunker sits short of the green and can swallow layup shots that are too aggressive.
The final hole at Pronghorn has a ghost tree in the middle of the fairway, which offers not only a cool-looking final tee ball, but also a little hazard to avoid. Laying back far enough to go over the tree on your second will leave an approach of 200-plus yards, but get too close to the tree and you will be forced to low flight something under it. It’s a great finishing hole, if you navigate the ghost tree and the bunker short and right of the green.
Don’t forget to pop in to lunch at Iris after your round or hit up the pro shop for some merch. Pronghorn does have a great logo, so picking up a logo ball, cap or headcover is a must.
On the way back from Pronghorn Club, there is one other little errand you might want to squeeze into your itinerary. It won’t take long, but if you are a child of the ‘80s or ‘90s, it’s a must. Just about 15 minutes from downtown Bend, sits the last Blockbuster in the world. Yes, that’s right … there is a Blockbuster Video in Bend, Oregon. I am 44 years old, so Blockbuster Friday and Saturday nights were a huge part of my youth. When we passed the Bend location, I had to pop in and check it out.
They still rent DVDs at this location, so should you actually still own a DVD player, you can pick up a new release. The layout is almost identical to every Blockbuster from the ‘90s, right down to the checkout counter with the “Coming Attractions” sign above it. They have added some fun pieces of memorabilia throughout the store, from a banner of the movie Uncle Buck and its VHS release date to an actual jacket worn by Harrison Ford in one of the Indiana Jones movies. So, in addition to the nostalgia, it has a museum vibe. They also sell merch like tee shirts, employee polos, and yes … even the membership cards (they’re $2 each). If you make it to Bend, be sure to step in this time-machine and enjoy revisiting making it a “Blockbuster night.”
After a spin through the last Blockbuster, I found myself on the first tee for a round on David McLay Kidd’s Tetherow. In my mind, I was expecting Oregon to be chock-full of towering pines and lush, emerald green turf. However, Tetherow is more akin to links-style golf with a high desert aesthetic. Rather than tall trees, you see gnarly fescue, sagebrush, thistle and other native shrubbery. Rocky volcanic outcroppings scattered across the course and dynamic bunkering make this one of the most interesting layouts in American golf.
If you have read any reviews of Tetherow, McLay Kidd’s design work here can be quite polarizing compared to some of his other courses like Bandon Dunes or Gamble Sands. While difficult, Tetherow is undoubtedly unlike anything else I have ever played. Hitting fairways is paramount. Tight, uneven lies make irons tough to judge, and the greens … well, let’s just say they can be downright diabolical. All that being said, Tetherow is truly eccentric, and while extreme in spots, is infinitely fun and distinctive.
Some of my personal favorites included No. 2, which is a split fairway par 5 that really offers links-style vibes. A drive of 275 yards will offer players a chance to reach the green in two, but that’s where the real fun begins, as a mound in the back middle of the putting surface means missing in the wrong spot can lead to a putt that is borderline impossible. I was fortunate enough to use the extreme undulations to my advantage and end up with a kick-in birdie.
The third at Tetherow is the opening hole of what members refer to as “Kidd’s Corner.” This four-hole stretch includes a gorgeous par 3 over water and a trio of demanding par 4s. No. 4 is the first of the par 4s and is also listed as the No. 1 handicap on the course. Once you tackle this behemoth, you will understand why. Playing at 481 from the tips, the tee shot requires a draw, but with environmentally sensitive area all down the left, overcook one too far in that direction likely means a lost ball and a re-tee. Finding the fairway doesn’t mean you are home free, as the green on this hole is one of the most challenging I have ever seen. Miss in an improper spot, and you run the risk of putting one off the green and being forced to retreat back into the fairway with a wedge.
No. 6 is the final hole of Kidd’s Corner, and this risk-reward split fairway presents one of the most scenic tee shots on this par-72 layout. One might think the elevated tee would offer some idea where to play the tee shot, but the overall look at the hole from above doesn’t really offer any additional suggestion. You simply pick a target and trust the fairway will be there should you execute. Find the lower half of the fairway and balls find a speed slot adding distance, while choosing the upper half is more forgiving, but won’t add any additional roll. It’s a whimsical hole to say the least, and one that you won’t forget.
Both the front and the back nine at Tetherow end with par 5s. No. 9 provides beauty and challenge as you head back to the base of the resort. A good tee shot makes this hole a great opportunity for a birdie as you stare down the green that is flanked in the rear by a rock outcropping, which is one of the most interesting architectural components of this McLay-Kidd design.
As you prepare for the inward nine, don’t forget to pop by the comfort station behind the ninth green. For the back, I stocked up on a couple of Volatile Substance beers from Von Ebert Brewing in Portland. You can also get some snacks or cocktails should you choose.
The back nine at Tetherow does present a bit more of the Pacific Northwest vibe you may have been expecting. It is still predominantly high-desert style, but there are at least a handful of holes that feature some of those ponderosa pines you would expect from a trip to the region.
I’m not sure if No. 10 is my favorite hole at Tetherow, but it is certainly in the conversation. The elevated tee box gives an almost 360-degree view of the course, and at just 275 yards to the front edge of the green, this par 4 really gives players the chance to start out the final nine with a bang. Wind direction will likely determine whether the putting surface is reachable, but even with the proper breeze, there are two bunkers that guard the front, and finding either turns this little hole into a difficult par quickly.
No. 12 is one of those holes that finally gives players those tall trees. After the links-ish layout to this point, the 12th is a little more claustrophobic, with a tree-lined fairway and dry waste area that crosses the fairway at near the 300-yard mark. From there, players navigate a dry barranca that leads to the green complex guarded by a huge bunker on the right.
I mentioned that No. 10 might be my favorite hole at Tetherow. However, No. 17, known as “The Quarry Hole,” is right there alongside it. The imagination to tuck this 170-yard par 3 into a crater in the Earth is what makes McLay Kidd one of the most sought-after architects in the game today. Regardless of what you think about Tetherow, there is no argument that can be made against No. 17 being one of the most objectively beautiful holes in the region. Hitting the green is a bonus, as trouble looms all around. But regardless of whether you walk away with a par, you can’t help but tip your cap to this extraordinary design.
The last challenge at Tetherow is another par 5 with an elevated tee box that gives players one final look around this rugged, yet stunning layout. With no fairway bunkers, this is a true grip-it-and-rip-it hole, putting a premium on length. The next couple of shots will play slightly back uphill, so be mindful to choose enough club. On a layout that can really show its teeth in spots, the final hole is doable with a good ball off the tee.
No matter what you score at Tetherow, you won’t walk away disappointed. Although difficult to dissect and comically challenging in some places, it is truly one of the most interesting golf courses in the United States. From opening tee shot to final putt, if you’ve played Tetherow, you won’t forget it.
Once you complete your round, make your way to The Row, which is Tetherow’s pub. Not only are there plenty of beers on tap, but also a great cocktail menu. I went for the Pear Cooler, which was perfect after a warm afternoon on the course. This smooth sipper combines Wild Roots pear vodka, lemon juice and simple syrup for a tasty summer palate cleanser.
For dinner, I went with the special of the day, which was a grilled halibut with some crunchy rice balls and a cucumber salad. If you’re ever at Tetherow and this is the special for the evening, don’t even pick up the menu. Just shake your head yes to your server and move along to choosing dessert, which for us was a rib-sticking chocolate chip cookie served in a piping hot cast iron vessel with some vanilla ice cream on top. If you have a sweet tooth, don’t skip it.
After two great days at Tetherow, we unhitched the wagon and moved north toward Black Butte Ranch, which would be our final stop for the week. On the way, we took the morning and had some coffee in Downtown Sisters, which is named for the three sister peaks that overlook the town from the west.
Downtown Sisters presents visitors with plenty of shopping, dining and a small-town ambiance reminiscent of the late 1800s. Our visit happened to be at the same time as the annual Sisters rodeo, which takes place the second week in June every year. With the rodeo, downtown Sisters was buzzing with activity and rodeo fans while we cruised the local bookstore, candy shop and other boutiques.
After departing Sisters, we made our way to Black Butte Ranch, which was our final stop of the week. Located about 45 minutes from Bend, this property sits near the Cascade Mountains and offers scenic views and lush, green rolling meadows. Black Butte has also applied for International Dark Sky recognition (a distinction awarded to the town of Sisters not long ago), making this a wonderful spot for star gazing. In addition to a pair of golf courses, Black Butte also features horseback riding, biking, and a spa for unwinding after a long day on the course or the trails.
While on property at Black Butte, I was able to tee it up at Glaze Meadow, which was originally designed by Gene “Bunny” Mason in 1982. John Fought stepped in to renovate the course in 2012, and since, Glaze Meadow has been regarded as one of the region’s must-play tracks.
Glaze Meadow is a bit more like what I imagined golf in the Pacific Northwest to look like. Huge pine and Aspen trees line fairways, offering beautifully framed holes that echo the acoustics of a well-struck iron shot across the rolling fairways.
After an opening pair of holes featuring a par 4 and a par 5, Glaze retreats briefly into a valley with marshland that impacts the next three holes. No. 3 has a lake all down the right that will collect any tee shots in that direction. It’s a short hole, playing just 319 from the back tees, so players can be as aggressive as they choose to be.
Another par 4 waits at No. 4; this one is a sharp dogleg right, again with water on that side. There is a bunker that is a great aiming point off the tee. But beware, long hitters can chase balls through the fairway on that line, potentially ending up in the bunker, or even past it and out of bounds.
The final hole before the course begins another ascent is the gorgeous par-3 fifth. Water on both sides of the green presents a challenge, but the green has some generous square footage, so sending an iron shot to the middle of the green is a great play. Good ball strikers should flourish on this 165-yarder.
The final nine at Glaze Meadow offers a design element I feel more courses should present. The back has three par 3s, three par 4s and three par 5s. Some architectural purists will argue this isn’t how courses should be laid out, but I think the opportunity for more birdies is a good thing. Good ball strikers should have another look or two with the additional par 3 and par 5. And if you’ve never had an ace, well … there’s one more chance than you would normally have.
Holes 10 and 12 are par 5s, as is No. 15. Holes 11, 14 and 17 are all par 3s. Of those holes, No. 12 is a personal favorite, and although very long at 606 from the plates, the elevation does knock some of the yardage off. Find the fairway, and a layup is still very likely, but a precision wedge third and you might add a circle to the card.
No. 17 is a really pretty penultimate hole. Playing significantly downhill, and with the altitude, club selection is tough here, usually playing shorter than the 182 on the scorecard. Two bunkers guard the front of the green, so be sure to choose enough club to find the putting surface. But be vigilant not to airmail the green, leaving a tough up-and-down.
Course conditions are nice at Glaze Meadow. Greens aren’t going to run like those at Pronghorn or Tetherow, but overall, they are well above average. The one main thing to take away from Glaze is the aesthetic. Although less than an hour away from Bend, the more mountainous terrain and towering trees are far different than anything else we saw during our visit. It’s great to know as a golfer you can travel just a few minutes away and experience something so vastly different. That makes the Central Oregon area very unique. Glaze Meadow has a great collection of par 3s and some very gettable shorter par 4s and 5s. If you are planning on spending a few days at Black Butte, it’s well worth checking out.
If you are looking for golf fun, but don’t feel like tackling either of the 18-hole layouts, then check out the Little Meadow Putting Course, which is at the bottom of the mountain near Big Meadow and the main lodge.
After the afternoon on the course, I chose to hit the pool for about an hour before dinner. As far as scenery goes, the Black Butte pool is top of the food chain. A lake in the foreground just beyond the pool area is a perfect handshake between resort and the Three Sisters, Broken Top and Mt. Washington in the background. It’s like looking at a Bob Ross original painting while you’re enjoying a swim. Even in June the water was still chilly, which felt great after a day on the course.
Dinner for our final evening in Oregon took us to The Lodge restaurant at Black Butte. The entire lodge was recently updated with a $20 million renovation, and the result is a dining experience recently named one of the 50 most beautiful restaurants in America by People Magazine. I would have to agree, as the same view presented at the pool is also there for your pleasure as you dine. It happened to be our anniversary dinner, and I couldn’t think of a better place to celebrate than with executive chef John Scott preparing us some wonderful steak frites and British Columbia King Salmon. Although I’m not much of a gin guy, I washed my meal down with a refreshing Sisters Spritz, which combines Sun Ranch Gin, St. Germain, prosecco and soda garnished with some juniper berries and lemon.
For dessert, we chose the peach cobbler, which is served warm with a caramel drizzle and vanilla oat gelato. Let’s just say we didn’t regret that decision. Meal complete. Vacation complete. And, man, what a time.
Central Oregon is unique and interesting in so many ways. Even after some online reconnaissance, I still wasn’t expecting what I encountered. Was it a great overall experience? Unquestionably. Was I a little surprised at the overall aesthetic of central Oregon? That’s also a big affirmative. I would have to say from stem to stern, this area is one of the most unique and gorgeous I have ever been to. Thirty miles in any direction from Bend and you are likely to find something completely different.
From the golf to the accommodations, you can choose your own adventure in central Oregon, and not have to drive too far or get on another plane to change the vibe. This region may not be as well-known as Bandon, but it’s every bit as worthy of a visit.