Travel – Lajitas Golf Resort
If you are a golfer in Texas, you have likely heard of Lajitas Golf Resort … but chances are you have yet to make the trip to the Big Bend to see it. If you have yet to embark on this Texas adventure, it’s time. It’s time to stop making excuses and cross this one off the Texas golf bucket list. Why, you might ask? Because Lajitas is one of the most unique and interesting properties you will find anywhere in the Lone Star State.
There are a couple different ways you can get there. First, Lajitas offers charter flights from Resort Air Services direct to Lajitas International operated by JSX out of Dallas, with flights out of Houston and Austin operated by SkyWest Charters. This makes the trip a little more expensive, but the convenience is worth the extra cost. The flights are direct into the small airstrip just a few miles from the resort, and from Dallas, takes about 65 minutes from wheels up to wheels down. Or, as I have told many fellow golfers, it’s a two-cocktail flight.
Your other option would be to drive it, which is the route my wife and I chose when we visited in August. At face value, the drive seems arduous, but we made it in a little over eight hours, and that was with a handful of stops. We got on the road about 4:00 a.m., and were on property about 1:00 p.m., and to be honest, the drive wasn’t at all that taxing. If you happen to be traveling with a group of four buddies planning to play golf, everyone drives two hours, and boom … you’re there. Once on the other side of Odessa and start heading straight south, the drive opens up and it’s smooth sailing. Then once you pass through Alpine, the majestic plateaus begin to expose themselves and eventually give way to one of the most unique parts of the entire country, with massive mountains and jagged rock formations that look like you just touched down on a different planet. The last 90 minutes of the drive are stupendous as you near Big Bend National Park, Terlingua and the resort.
Once on the 27,000-acre property, check-in is a breeze and the staff in the main hotel are super helpful and welcoming. Your first few minutes on property truly make you feel like you’re in a Clint Eastwood western. Rich wood accents, and just outside along both sides of the main boardwalk, sit rustic structures on each side that harken back to the Old West. As the warm breeze passes down the walkway, you really begin to feel the aura you will live among for the next few days and nights.
After check-in, you have plenty of options. But my suggested first stop would be to the Lajitas General Store, which has been around in some capacity since 1949, but moved to its current location in 2007. At the store, you can stock up on provisions for your stay, like water and other drinks and snacks for your room, or you can grab a souvenir knickknack or one of their delicious burgers or sandwiches, which are great if you want a quickie lunch or something to take for a picnic or a trip to the National Park. My favorite is The Wild Bill, which is buffalo chicken, bacon, pepper jack, jalapeños with some ranch on a toasted onion bun.
Once finished up at the General Store, wander just a few feet from the entrance to visit the Mayor of Lajitas. This mayor truly is the GOAT. No, not the acronym for “greatest of all time,” but an actual goat. Clay Henry, along with his lady friend, greet visitors from around the world. But just be prepared with a couple quarters for the food-dispensing novelty machine next to their cage, or you might just get the stink eye from Mr. Mayor.
Accommodations come in abundance at Lajitas. There is the Badlands Hotel, which is located on the aforementioned boardwalk, that offers all second-floor rooms (there is no elevator, so be aware of that when booking). They are standard king and queen rooms and the Clay Henry Suite, which is available for those looking for something a little larger.
The Calvary Post is another option, which is located just across the road from the main boardwalk and is perfect for your next buddies’ golf trip. There are 26 of these rooms that offer deluxe king and queen options. They are one of the more affordable options on property, offering a cozy stay and maximum value.
On our recent visit, we were shacked up in one of Lajitas Officer’s Quarters. These two buildings are nestled near the main boardwalk, and one of the buildings has a view of the golf course below. King beds, terrace and walk-in showers adorn these 12 suites, making them a must for your next getaway with someone special.
Lajitas also offers cottages, and a few other options for your stay, each one ranging in price and accoutrement. With multiple options at multiple price points, you are just a few clicks away from booking a room that offers exactly what you need, whether it be a place to hitch your wagon for a golf-specific vacation, or maximum luxury for an anniversary trip with all the trimmings.
Black Jack’s Crossing has been named best course you can play in Texas by multiple publications, both in the state and nationally. Pure and simple, it is the most unique course in the state, and to be perfectly honest, it isn’t particularly close. Sure, there are plenty of fine golf destinations in the Hill Country and other parts of the state, but Black Jack’s is so unbelievably different, it’s virtually impossible to beat. Once on the course, you are left in slack-jawed amazement as to how they were even able to construct a course on this wacky topography, much less maintain it to the standard they do. The course weaves, climbs and dips through the jagged, mountainous terrain, each hole with its own unique personality.
The course sits on a massive footprint. It is close to a nine-mile loop from opening tee shot to closing putt, so be prepared for some real estate between some greens and the following tee box … but the relaxing jaunt between holes really adds to the overall aesthetic, giving players the opportunity to soak in the topography from hole to hole.
The opening hole is actually one of the more benign holes on the entire Lanny Wadkins par-72 layout. It is a wonderful appetizer that offers some forgiveness off the tee and a great chance at beginning your round with a bang before the course begins to climb into the mountains.
No. 2 is a great little par 3 tucked into the badlands which features a slightly elevated green. A bunker guards the front, so be sure to take plenty of club to reach the green, which has a significant amount of slope, that can make for some whimsical putts should you find the wrong side. As you head toward the second green, there is a comfort station where you can stock up on drinks or snacks. Be sure to hit this up before you move on, as it will be your last chance to fuel up before you make the turn. On hotter summer days, hydration is important with the dry heat, so don’t find yourself stranded without plenty of water.
After the opening few holes, Black Jack’s Crossing really begins to shine. No. 4 is the first true stunner, with an elevated tee that overlooks the par-5 fairway below. This is the first real taste of the incredible views and elevation changes you will encounter through the remainder of your round. Grip it and rip it off the tee but be aware of the jagged rock outcropping on the right, which can block out attempts at going for the green in two. A left center of the fairway tee shot offers the best angle, but the second or third shot will need to cover a small, meandering stream that sits just short of the green.
After a great little uphill par 3 at No. 5, comes the most interesting … and to some, the most difficult hole on the course. Rated as the No. 1 handicap, the sixth hole is a quirky par 4 that plays 443 from the tips, but climbs from the tee to the fairway and then makes a hard right back downhill to a green tucked in a valley and surrounded by cliffs on both sides. The trick here is to not try to chew off too much of the dogleg. It appears if that would be possible from the tee, but should you lose it a bit right, you will be in rattler territory searching for your ball. There are a couple palms in the distance, and just slightly right of them is the target line. Don’t try to be too bold here, or you could end up making a real mess for yourself. The approach shot plays downhill, but in my experience, it doesn’t seem to take too much off the number. So choose a club and trust your yardage. In five rounds at Black Jack’s Crossing, I have seen anything from birdies to snowmen on this hole.
No. 7 is a great par 4 from another elevated tee that offers views of the whole property. There is a huge crevasse that the fairway runs into. So, especially from some of the forward tees, driver may be too much club. Laying back a bit with a three-metal or hybrid is a wise play but leaves a mid-iron or more to the all carry approach. Anything short falls into the abyss, and unless you are carrying repelling gear, won’t be fetchable. There is a sliver of bailout area right of the green, so that’s a good spot to miss if you aren’t feeling confident. This putting surface has some wild slopes, so take a few extra seconds to really read putts and try to decipher what they might do. It can be tricky.
Of all the holes on this layout, No. 8 is probably my favorite. People throw around “elevated tee” quite frequently, but this is THE elevated tee in the entire state. If there is one spot to stop and take some pictures, this is it. A par 5 playing 612 from the tips, if you never hit a driver again, be sure to hit one on this hole. The majestic drop of some 200 feet from tee to fairway allows balls to hover in the air for a good 10 seconds as they grab for the earth below. This hole looks like something you would see on the bar game Golden Tee, rather than something in reality. No hyperbole, in my opinion, it is the most fun you will have hitting a tee shot in Texas.
The back nine at Black Jack’s Crossing is as intense and fun as the front. Portions of the inward stanza skirts the border of Mexico and is a blend of more mountainous terrain and jaw-dropping architectural elements.
No. 12 is one of my personal favorites on the whole course. This par 4 climbs up to the right, and although playing just 357 yards, requires a precise tee shot for an opportunity at birdie. Find the fairway and then fire your approach into a green surrounded on all sides by jagged mountain rocks that rise in all directions, erecting a natural auditorium and a 360-degree view you won’t believe.
The 13th is one of the most gorgeous par 3s in the country. This green sits well below the tee, making a 160-yard shot play more like 120. This is another wonderful spot for photos and to take in the surroundings as you prepare to fire your iron shot down the hill to the green. This can be a tough club selection hole as the elevation really knocks some distance off the yardage on the card.
As you load up your clubs to hit the road (or plane) for Lajitas, be sure to throw a couple gently used golf balls in your bag for No. 15. This is the hole that sits right on the Rio Grande and from the box, you can tee one up, turn left and hammer a nugget into Mexico. Probably not the most environmentally friendly thing you can do, but it is fun to hit a ball from one country to another. Once you decide to hit one toward the fairway, be sure to favor the right as everything left will careen down the hill toward the river, never to return.
No. 16 is the first hole of the 5-3-5 finish to the course. This hole plays as a slight dogleg left, so longer players can take a little bit off the corner for optimum angle. Missing a little right is okay as long is your ball doesn’t find a large bunker on that side of the fairway. This hole will be slightly different in the near future, as the resort is planning and in the process of constructing a large pond to the right of this hole which can grab some of the longer hitters’ tee shots or anything sprayed right on approach. Excavators were busy at work moving earth on this project during my visit a few weeks ago.
After the par-3 17th, comes the last hole of the day and another hole primed for scoring. I have always enjoyed courses that end with a par 5, and although this hole isn’t as scenic as some of the other ones at Black Jack’s, ending with an opportunity to scribble a circle on the card is always a good thing. A good tee shot here will leave somewhere in the 200-225 range, depending on which tees you select. So if you can execute a long iron, it can be a green light. A couple bunkers guard the green, but they aren’t too penal if found, but a short-left or long-right miss is the play should you be looking to bail out a bit.
Conditions at Black Jack’s Crossing are always phenomenal, especially given the absolutely relentless heat during the summer months. We visited at the end of August, and despite temps hovering right around 100, the tees, fairways and greens were stupendous. I am honestly not sure how they do it. I mentioned the work being done to the right of No. 16, well, there is another new golf feature on the horizon that will further enhance this as a must-see golf destination. Plans for a par-3 course are in place, with the location already selected at the base of Lajitas Mesa and work set to begin late this month. The hope is the Lanny Wadkins par 3 will be completed in less than a year … so keep your eyes peeled for further developments on that front.
Once you have seen and played Black Jack’s Crossing, it is abundantly clear why it is routinely ranked as the best course you can play in Texas. Even if for some reason you aren’t a fan of the layout (which I can’t imagine anyone wouldn’t be), it is impossible to beat the views and the unique topography upon which the course is constructed. It is truly an architectural marvel, and a course everyone in the state who loves golf should play at least once.
Should you bring a non-golfing significant other with you to Lajitas, I highly recommend letting your partner or spouse ride along at least one round to enjoy the stunning beauty of the course. But, should they not want to tag along for a few hours while you play, there are plenty of other activities Lajitas offers. There are a pair of resort pools, one sits near the La Questa rooms, and is a great and relaxing place to nurse a few drinks and make some new friends while on property. The other pool is at the RV park and is great for families who have brought the whole tribe in via recreational vehicle. Either of the pools are also great to take a cooling dip post-golf, especially if you play during the meaty part of the summer when temps can soar to near 110 degrees.
Other options include sporting clays or a cowboy action shoot (which is exactly what it sounds like) or take a sunrise or sunset trail ride leaving from the equestrian center. There is also the Agave Spa, which is a hit among the ladies who might be accompanying a golfing spouse to the property. Agave offers massages, facials and other options to help you relax your stress away. While on property, I was taking in my second round of golf and my wife wanted to try out ziplining. She was happy to report that it was incredible, and she noted she would absolutely do it again, so that is another fun option for your family or group while you are at the resort.
If you bring your own vehicle or RV to the resort, you can also venture off property for a bit to take a spin through Big Bend National Park, or Big Bend Ranch State Park, both of which are in close proximity to the property. By now you probably understand that Lajitas is a good bit off the grid. In fact, it sits in one of the least light-polluted areas in the country … thus, the stargazing is unmatched. We happened to be in town during the final couple days of the Perseid Meteor shower, and let me tell you, if you are someone who is dazzled by that sort of thing, you simply won’t beat the nighttime views at Lajitas.
There are a couple dining options at Lajitas. Of course, there is the aforementioned General Store, but there is also the Boardwalk Bakery and Pizzeria, which is a quick breakfast, lunch or evening option for some grub. If you are wanting a nice sit-down atmosphere, then the Thirsty Goat is Lajitas’ saloon that sits at the end of the boardwalk. Thirsty Goat is not only the place to belly up to the bar for a great cocktail, but also has burgers, pizza, wings, dogs and sandwiches, any of which make a great lunch or quick dinner.
For a more upscale dining option, just across the breezeway from Thirsty Goat is the Candelilla Café. Candelilla offers exceptional cuisine, from their crab cake or crab finger appetizers to their shrimp scampi or 8 oz. prime filet. This is your stop for a top-notch meal while on property.
On the Lajitas website, they offer this nugget: “Lajitas activities are designed to keep your family as busy as it wants to be.” I can tell you; no truer words have been spoken. At Lajitas, there are so many different things to do, each as fun as the last. The golf cannot be beat, and the resort has everything you could ever want for your next getaway.
I can truly say that there isn’t another destination in Texas, and maybe the entire country, like Lajitas. It’s desolate, but welcoming. It’s beautiful, but rugged. It’s interesting in so many ways that you need to see it to believe it. If Lajitas isn’t on your bucket list, add it. And if it is, and you haven’t yet made it happen, the time is now.